Rachel Zoe Collection Pre-Fall 2012: 1970s Mod Military

For Pre-Fall 2012, Rachel Zoe infused her signature '70s sensibility with a dose of something new: '60s mod. Mary Quant pea-coats, trim ankle pants, and perky mini-dresses mixed easily among lean-flared trousers, slim-lined blazers, and floaty maxi dresses — pieces that are by now Zoe classics. Silhouettes stayed clean, as did the color palette — just a splash of vivid red, fuchsia, and cyan here or there to contrast what was an overall subdued story of black, taupe, gray, and cream. Texture — and a bit of California glamour — came in the form of matte sequins, printed chiffon, and a high-pile faux fur.

Stylist-turned-reality star-turned-designer Rachel Zoe has certainly taken a turn for the chic with her Pre-Fall collection, incorporating more tailored shapes into her generally bohemian style. Her designs this season are all about structure and lush materials, with a not-so subtle nod to the ’60s and ’70s. Military detailing plays a strong role in separates and outerwear, with brightly colored slim coats getting the double-breasted Sgt. Pepper treatment.

The ’70s are still very much here, in the form of slim (and insanely flattering) to-the-floor flares, pussy bow blouses and dresses, and super glam shaggy fur vests. Slim-fit jackets toughen up ultra-feminine maxi dresses; thigh-high slits and tattered hemlines add a rocker vibe to otherwise sophisticated pieces.

The palette is overwhelmingly neutral, with some saturated pops of red, berry, and sky blue while some prints (muted florals and graphic) work their way in, too. With this collection, Zoe has managed to feminizing menswear almost to the degree that one forgets which gender these shapes were originally intended for: Who knew a double-breasted, blazer-inspired mini-dress could be so femme? It’s all in the tailoring.

Photos courtesy of Rachel Zoe


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