GIORGIO ARMANI promised us “a game of colours that achieves a new and distinctive sense of depth,” at his Emporio Armani show this morning – but the game was “spot the colour”. The vast majority of the collection was clean monochrome, with an occasional interjection of marbled pastel print or a scattering of molecular pink or green or lastly a layer of sparkling sequins which gave off rainbows as the spotlights hit them.
The lack of colour was all the better to see the supreme quality of these clothes – Armani dresses women who like to spend their money well, and next spring they’ll be in black trouser suits edged in white – or vice versa – and softly tailored silk dresses that fall to just above the knee with halter necks or cap sleeves and the occasional bouncing hooped hemline at the thigh or, less successfully, the ribcage.
Every girl wore a white boater with a wide black ribbon, as if to tidy her still-wet crisp white blonde bob, and the bags – big and black with white details, transparent plastic versions, or small long –strapped camera pouches – and shoes were a delight: Perspex sculpted wedges of neon or purple came under soft tan shoe-boots.
It’s always elegant and alluring in the most grown-up way – today’s show had a welcome subtlety, with a touch of fun as iridescent jellyfish dresses with multiple stiff hooped hemlines shimmered by.