Makeup how to: pink & punk at Chanel Cruise 2013


Makeup how to: pink & punk at Chanel Cruise 2013.
It was Marie Antoinette gone punk when Chanel's Cruise 2012/2013 collection sailed down the runway at the Palace of Versailles. But it wasn't just the clothes that were bold and candy-colored: angular bobs were supported by a strong make-up look dominated by the color pink. After the break: an in-depth look at recreating (and adapting) this look for yourself.


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Reminisce to the 18th century and imagine if Marie Antoinette were ghetto – she’d be sipping tea in a rock n’ roll gathering while Karl Lagerfeld would be monitoring her wardrobe.

Karl Lagerfeld used this very vision for Chanel Cruise 2013 runway show at the Palace of Versailles. It was a contradiction in its strongest element. The picturesque garden brought out the frivolity of the resort collection, while also turning up the notch of ‘adventurous’ in the beauty and hair department. The whimsical hues of lilac, peach, mint and pink continued to trend the entire ensemble, as oppose to limiting themselves to the threads.

The dyed stands of the fringed and angular bob were supported by a strong make-up look. These overly pink tones might have come across at supremely girly at first, but it’s a look that’ll take you from a fairytale-themed party to a Rooney Mara-esque gathering, without begging for changes in your ensemble.

On the day of the show, Lagerfeld was quoted in The Telegraph saying, “Maybe 99 per cent of the people who see the clothes will never own them, but they can buy the lipstick or the perfume”.

Whether you’re a fan of Marie Antoinette’s aesthetic or an enthusiast of M.I.A’s music, get ready to devour your beauty shelves with this punk girl look.

Skin
Creative Director of Chanel makeup, Peter Philips, didn’t want to create a “historic canvas” on the models’ faces, considering other heavy elements of the look.

His make-up team used Vitalumiere Moisture-Rich Radiance Fluid Makeup SPF 15 as the base, concealed visible blemishes with Correcteur Perfection Long Lasting Concealer and finished the look with a loose powder, Poudre Universelle Libre Natural Finish on the day of the show.

To re-create this look at home, Anni Hall advises to go foundation free, as that would create the same effect with less work. The colours on the cheeks and eyes would anyways divert all the attention away.

“The last thing you want with such girly, punky makeup is a heavy base. Use a hint of tinted moisturiser to cover imperfections,” she says.

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Eyes
The focal point of this look is the intense eyes. The rose pink eyeshadow goes all the way to the brows, covering the entire top lid of the eye. The shade used for the show is Chanel Limited Edition Ombre Essentielle in Rose Favorite (releasing in December).


Hall says the eyes are the easy bit to achieve, as you need only one product for that. “It’s all about the eyeshadow here, and not much else, not even mascara,” she says.

The eyes step-by-step:

  1. Pick an eyeshadow that’s of a creamy texture, as they’re easy to apply on the lid. This Chanel eyeshadow shade is a shimmery mousse, so it applies really easily.
  2. Apply an eye primer to the entire lid, so it can hold the strong colour in place.
  3. Start with swiping the colour along the top lash line with an eyeshadow brush. Work the product over the lid in a diagonally upward motion into the crease and then take it up to the brow.
  4. Blending is the key here, so imagine as though you’re painting the top lid of your eye. Use more produce for more intensity and pigmentation.
  5. If you want to imitate the exact runway look, brush a little product upwards through the brow. Otherwise stop about 5mm under the brow.
  6. Finish up by adding some eyeshadow under the eye – keep it concentrated under the iris. You can also apply a white eye pencil to the waterline, to make the eyes appear more alive.
  7. Use an eyelash curler to simply define the lashes and curl them, but don’t use any product on them. It’s all about the lids here.
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Brows
The brows are also very important for this look, as they frame the face. You need a strong definition that breaks up the color on the face. For the runway, Philips used Chanel’s Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil on the models’ brows.


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 Bobbi Brown brow pencil

Cheeks
For Chanel Cruise 2013, the make-up look is all about the eyes and the cheeks, as they narrate the entire beauty story for the collection. Using the Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Rose Pétale shade, Philips adds definition to the cheeks for this look.

You don’t need a bronzer or highlighter for this, as you can use a powder blush to create an illusion of architectural cheekbones. However, if you’re using a cream blush, remember to blend it in really well, and all the way till the hairline; you don’t want any blotches.


Anni Hall says a pink blush isn’t just restricted to this look, as by adding a pinky punch to the cheek instantly lifts up tired complexions. “Blend a cool pink (whether it’s soft or bold) on the apples of the cheeks… It’ll make you look so much brighter,” she recommends.

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Lips
The excessive use of the color pink contributed to the theatrical element of the runway show, one that Lagerfeld aimed to achieve, but it’s not very feasible for an everyday look.

“For a successful look, choose one focal point and tone down the other features. Either go for pink eyes, or for the quickest and most effective look, work a bright pink lip,” suggests Hall.


For the show, Philips kept the pink pout very subtle by dabbing Rouge Coco Shine Lipstick in Evasion on every model’s lips.

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Other Colors For The Season
When trying this look at home, don’t be afraid to use other shades to create similar bold eyes.

“[Those] who want to really get their color on and paint eyes, cheeks and lips with one hue, try peach, apricot, orange, pomegranate, grape, plums, and even, pastels. Pink is definitely the easiest hue to pull off, but with some playing and patience, these would all look incredible too,” suggests Hall.

If a smoky eye is your favorite, follow the above steps using a gel-based black eye shadow. But do remember to add in a strong charcoal black eye liner and mascara to finish off the look.

Photography: Vincent Lappartient for Chanel

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